By Reuben Archer, Melbourne.
I’m new to it and I don’t know why it took me so long to get into it. Probably fear of failure but thanks to a buddy in Byron Bay who insisted that I could only visit him if I took up surfing, I gave in to his bargaining.
Before you surf, you don’t get it. It’s an incredible experience. It’s a bit like being mindful if you know what that feels like. You cannot be any more in the present moment than when you surf; lose your focus and feeling of being and you fall off!
I took a series of lessons and practised as much as I could, it’s addictive. It’s summer here now and I’m getting better and better and I miss it when I don’t get to ride. You get a real high and when you’re in it it’s all about the next wave you’re going to catch, because you always want more, like a fix.
It’s a bit like great sex, when it flows, it’s all encompassing – physically, emotionally and spiritually. You can do it again and again, and it’s always new, you always look forward to the next feeling of ecstasy.
It’s a restorative hobby, I can have the crappiest day and be feeling really low and then I get my board out, see buddies on the beach, I get on my board and the waves wash away all of the negativity I might be feeling or thinking.
It can be frustrating from time to time; it’s hard to convey what it’s like to non surfers who glaze over when I want to talk about it and in a way writing this piece has been really fun. I just wish I had some photos of me actually riding!
I feel at one with the world when I surf and for me it feels like therapy; after every session I feel brand new and ready to take on whatever life throws at me.